I’ve been to a lot of mountain parks, but nothing prepared me for Banff.

It was still the pre-dawn blue. We’d just pulled away from our Hogwarts-Hotel when the trip’s first Canadian Peak overtook our horizon. Having arrived in the deep black that falls on Banff after sunset, taking in this mountain, settled above the town like a Chess Master crosslegged and hunched over his board, was both shocking and invigorating.

In truth, Cascade Mountain sits with such grandeur that it’s better described by a low-rumbling-bass-note than any word. It’s proximity allowing the naked eye to trace paths that would make the mountain attainable but never command-able. I’ve only thought this a handful of times in my life, when coming upon a mountain or ridgeline that cuts through and dominates the landscape in such a way that it makes our world feel smaller while making the world seem infinitely larger.

I think of this pre-morning view in tandem with every thought of Banff because, like this over-watching mountain, Banff is both elusive and attainable, feels both easy to explore but also uncontainable.

Not many ski stories start with the landscape, and not many places are like Banff.

There are three ski mountains in Banff – Banff Sunshine Village, Lake Louise, and Mt. Norquay. Together they’re known as ‘SkiBig3’, and, with a SkiBig3 pass, visitors can ski or snowboard every face during a single trip.  Even to the less frequent skier, each mountain had a very different feel and opened up different possibilities.

Banff Sunshine Village was the most accessible, with plenty of beginner runs and easy access to the top of the mountain for skiers of all levels. Lake Louise offered the chance to sprinkle in some very challenging runs throughout a day, while it’s expansive terrain gave me the sensation of getting lost in a winter wonderland. Of course, Mt. Norquay was different.

Throughout the week, our guides referenced ‘the mighty Quay’ with a mix of awe and caution. To the area’s experts, the runs at Norquay are consistently the most challenging mix of terrain in Banff. When the Quay morning finally arrived, I wasn’t afraid to be heading up the mountain, but I was aware that there would be challenges ahead.

However, the Quay I experienced was nothing of the monster that had been described over-and-over. I’m not saying that there aren’t perilous runs on the mountain, but we were able to ski a full day on a mix of runs and I never felt out of my comfort zone. In fact, on the day we were there and on the runs we took, preteens and kids seemed to outnumber the adults 5-to-1.

There is not one best-ski-resort-in-the-world because the right mountain can be as specific and capricious as the best-place-to-eat; it all depends on the desired atmosphere – private-secluded, edgy-challenging, social-luxurious. However, the wide range of mountains and experiences tucked into Banff allows visitors the opportunity to follow the whims of the day as opposed to letting their scenario dictate their experience. Using the ski big three mountain pass, I didn’t have to pre-plan my trip, I could ski, explore, engage the way I wanted when the mood hit me.

Where to Stay

Fairmont Banff Springs (which I referred to as Hogwarts) – By far the most majestic accommodations in the park, this stonewall-castle-style hotel sets luxury rooms, dining, and spas amongst Banff’s timeless firs, pines, and evergreens. A historical hotel with roots reaching back to 1888, splurge on more expensive rooms for added space and in-room amenities. While staying, make sure to grab a quick bite at the fast-casual Stock (especially if you like avocado toast) and an apres ski drink and cheese board at Grapes.

When to Go

While there were never any noticeable lines for any of the lifts, on weekdays skiers and snowboarders are able to find pockets of powder throughout nearly the entire day and can often go down runs alone or with only a handful of people sharing the slope.

Best Exchange Rate Perk

One of the best ways to fully enjoy the snow sports experience is with a private guide using SkiBig3’s Guided Adventures. On our last trip, we were blown away by how well the adventure guides could match each mountain’s terrain with our own skill level and expectations. Unlike other guided adventure tours that have tended to showcase only the guide’s favorite parts of the mountain, each of our guides found runs, cut-throughs, and views that made our trip unique to us. If you’re a photographer, they know all the best look out spots and even frequently check the mountains cameras and weather apps to see which lifts will provide the best views throughout the day.

With an exchange rate that favors the American dollar, a private guide can be added to a winter vacation while still remaining under the cost of a US luxury ski resort.

I’m working on a video now to share just a few moments of our trip. Check back soon to watch!