7 years ago, pre- baby Augustine, I embarked on a week long road trip around Western Montana with some of my favorite travel blogging friends. We visited Missoula, Glacier National Park and Whitefish, with a bunch of little stops along the way. We tasted flights of beers at different breweries and went on long hikes to waterfalls, armed with bear spray, and stayed up way too late sipping whiskey by a fireplace and sharing travel tales.
Then 3 years ago, I took off on another Montana road trip, this time solo, exploring Bozeman and Yellowstone National Park in the dead of winter- another truly memorable trip . And months later I returned a third time, celebrating Mothers Day by paddle boarding in Whitefish Lake.
With each visit, I’d return home and tell Bob all about my many adventures, always ending the tale with “you’ve gotta go to Montana with me one day”.
Luckily, this fall we made that dream come true- bringing Augustine with us too. And this family trip was unlike any we’d taken before- and not just because this trip included hiking with llamas, a sleep over with wizards and hobbits, and swimming in the clearest lake I’ve ever seen.
Western Montana must be seen to be believed- the lakes, mountains, wildflower fields that are cut by raging rivers… the big, “hard to describe”, sky that is never-ending. Western Montana is just special. And the best part- anyone can have this specialness. It doesn’t require VIP tickets or knowing the right person- it’s just there, waiting to be experienced.
Planning your trip: What to know before you go
- The biggest tip is to recreate responsibility. Simply, enjoy the great outdoors as a guest- treating the areas and local people with the utmost kindness, leaving no trace, planning before you visit, knowing when an area is too crowded and turning around to explore another time, and always doing your best to prevent wildfires or any natural destruction. Let’s keep these special natural places better than we found them.
- Western Montana is a popular place to visit but there are still so many spots where you can get out and explore all by yourself. Book your lodging in advance so you can get the best spots.
- Missoula is a sweet college town with foodie spots galore. If you love food, make sure to spend at least two nights here (and plan it over a weekend so you can visit the two farmers markets).
- While most places do take credit cards, bring cash for road side stops.
- There are some areas where cell service is spotty or unavailable – hey, you’re in the wilderness- enjoy it! But it’s a good idea to plot out your route in advance and don’t totally count on your maps app to work.
- Pack lots of layers- it could be 80 degrees during the day and then low 40s in the early mornings or at night.
Your Day by Day Itinerary:
Day 1-2/3: City Life
Starting in Missoula, plan out two nights here at the start. We flew in on a Friday afternoon, which allowed us to exploring the Saturday morning farmers markets and all the restaurants were open. Note: some restaurants and shops were closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so definitely check before you visit if you have a special restaurant in mind.
Where to stay: We loved both of these hotels. Bob said he never wanted to get out of the bed at the Holiday Inn Downtown Missoula, and the restaurants in the Residence Inn are some of the best in the city. You’ll be impressed with both options, I can’t pick a favorite! Augustine loved the pool at Residence Inn but they were both great options.
- Holiday Inn Downtown Missoula, located right by the Clark Fork River and within walking distance to everything downtown.
- Residence Inn by Marriott Missoula (Also located downtown, we were able to stay in one of their extended stay rooms, with a full kitchen, separate living space and one bedroom. These options are great if you are traveling with younger kids who need an earlier bedtime or you just want more space.)
What to do:
The best part about downtown Missoula is that it is such a walking friendly city. You can park your car at the hotel and never once have to get back in. Here’s some of our favorite things right around the two downtown hotels listed above.
- Hike the M. Located above the University of Montana Missoula’s football field is a zigzag trail that has the best spectacular views of the city and nearby mountains. While we were there, we were lucky enough to watch snow falling on the mountains surrounding the city so that we when started our hike they were bare and by the time we got to the top the mountaintops had white caps! The trail takes about 45 minutes and Augustine was easily able to do it on her own.
- Enjoy the farmers market. We could have stayed at the farmers market all day. We picked our own bouquet of fresh flowers, bought some local honey and fruit to bring with us on the road trip and played at the nearby park.
- Take a ride on the carousel of Missoula. Each horse is special and unique, hand -painted with its own story. Each ride is $1 and Augustine may have spent her $5 tooth fairy money all here!
- Eat! From ice cream at The Big Dipper and hot chocolate espressos at Ducrey Chocolate to Mexican food at The Camino, you will not go hungry in Missoula.
Day 3: Head North
Now you’re starting the road trip, heading north on 93- fill up your tank and get ready for an adventure!
Stops along the way:
- Garden of 1000 Buddhas. Yes, there really are 1000 buddhas (Augustine tried to count them all but we’re still working on counting to 100!) We spent a lot of time here but it’s an easy in and out if you want to just stretch your legs or bring a little snack and have a peaceful picnic on the grounds.
- Bison Range. This drive through bison range is pretty impressive. Bison are just cool, especially if you’re a city kid. They are big and look prehistoric and tough. Augustine loved the two-hour drive around the range, looking for and then spotting the bison. We also saw deer, pronghorns and elks.
- Great Grey Gifts. We stopped for some ice cream and snacks before continuing on the road trip.
Once you see Flathead Lake, turn north on highway 35 and head up the east side of the lake. We stopped in Big Fork for the night.
Where to stay:
- Mountain Lake Lodge in Big Fork has beautiful condos with small kitchens and gorgeous views overlooking the lake. We arrived with plenty of time to jump in the pool and hot tubs before heading into the little town and getting dinner and a show. Randomly the little theatre in town had tickets to The Lion King, so we bought tickets after dinner and took in the show. Augustine loved watching this all-kids cast perform the show and was dancing and singing all night.
Where to eat:
- Flathead Lake Brewing Company, Stone Hill Kitchen and Bar and Showtyme Act II were all recommended. The brewery has amazing views and an outdoor area.
Day 4:
Today is llama trekking day! Grab breakfast from Mountain Lake Lodge before packing up and heading to Swan Mountain Outfitters. The 30-minute scenic drive from Big Fork is a showstopper, so if you like to stop and take pictures I’d give yourself even more time.
- Llama trek hike to a waterfall. The only thing you need to prepare is yourself- wear comfortable layers and good shoes, everything else will be taken care of! Each person in your party will get their own llama as a hiking companion, and when I say companion, I mean it. The llamas are so friendly and each have their own personalities. It was so fun getting to know them all and Augustine absolutely loved the thrill of having to hold her llamas leash and help guide it (although the llama knew the route better than any of us). Lunch is included in the trek and your guide will chat through all the local plants, animals and anything else you might have questions about- it really is your tour.
After llama trekking, head north towards Columbia Falls. You’ll stay at Roam Beyond, just 20-minutes outside of Glacier National Park. It’s the perfect home base for exploring Glacier.
Where to Stay:
- Road Beyond. Welcome to your tiny house/cabin trailer/adult summer camp all rolled into one. It’s a special place with gorgeous views and plenty of space to wander around (the kids can roam free too). We loved the s’mores at night and the early morning coffee near the pond. We met people who stayed here for a week while they explored Glacier- so stay as long as you’d like and just enjoy slowing down and resetting.
Day 5:
Enjoy a slow morning at Roam Beyond, head into the park or continue west around the lake.
Stop at West Shore State Park for a hike and picnic around the lake. Flathead Lake is the largest fresh water lake in the west and super clear. Depending on weather you can stay here for a really long time- it’s one of the most beautiful state parks we’ve ever been to. People were paddling around in kayaks and others were hiking along the shore.
Moving on, we continued towards The Shire of Montana, where hobbits and fairies rule. We wanted to get there early afternoon so we could fully explore all the fairy houses and hobbit houses. We lit a fire, made a huge pot of spaghetti and just snuggled outside with a blanket and watched the stars start to pop up all in the sky.
Day 6: Head back to Missoula
Slowly make your way back to Missoula with a relaxing stop at Quinn’s Hot Springs, in… fittingly Paradise, Montana. 🙂 There are 5 naturally feed hot springs at various temperatures and then 2 saltwater pools for kids of all ages.
Once back in Missoula, grab lunch before your flight or spend another day or two to taste test all the spots you missed earlier in the week.
This road trip itinerary can be tweaked based on your interests and how much time you have to explore. Remember to recreate responsibly and take lots of pictures!