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Visiting Ha’ena & the Nā Pali Coast with Kids

Ha’ena State Park was the first reservation we made for our Kauai vacation. Without a doubt there was no way Jade was going to miss out on the epic Nā Pali Coast. (This wasn’t a new thing. She’d be jonesing to see it ever since her brother’s honeymoon helicopter tour). We picked a day in the middle of our trip so we would have time to do the ‘Hawaii Beach Thing’ for a few days before trying out mountain hiking with the family.

Now, our Kauai trip was a family vacation in every sense of the word. We were traveling with Augustine (then 6 years old) and Jade’s parents. So, each of the activities we planned out had to accommodate just about every type of vacation ideal; from kid to grown-up to grown-up-grown-up. That said, we really didn’t think too much about hiking in Ha’ena because it’s usually ranked as a ‘top 10 Kauai experience’ and it frequently pops-up in family travel forums as a great day trip. Both typically signs of attractions that are pretty accessible.

Well, all the ‘Must Visit’ suggestions didn’t dive much into the actual experience. 

Don’t get me wrong, I’m really glad we went and saw the wavy Nā Pali Coast, but a bit more pre-planning would have probably helped us set reasonable expectations for our visit and definitely would have encouraged us to pursue hiking boot options.

See, Ha’ena State Park is just one of those places that you have to do ‘the right way’ with advanced planning. Located at the dead end of the Kuhio Highway, showing up to the park unprepared is not something you can simply fix – it’s just something you have to roll with (and that’s not always easy).

Here are :

11 Things You Should Know Before Visiting Ha’ena State Park with Kids – based on our visit.

You Need Advanced Reservations

  • Ha’ena State Park is actually one of the 8 Reservations Needed For Your Hawaii Vacation. The reservation system is very self explanatory. There are two options for non-locals; parking on site (very limited) and taking the shuttle from just outside of Hanalei (the best option). Either one, you need to book in advance (make your reservations a few weeks in advance *at least* if traveling in summer).
  • We had no idea what to expect from the shuttle, and actually were super happy with how well it’s managed. The experience is very structured, pull into the grass field parking lot and show your tickets to park. It seemed like there was someone watching the cars the entire time – which is great for Hawaii. Then you go and wait for your scheduled shuttle to arrive – showing your tickets again prior to boarding.
  • The shuttle is a short-ish ride (about 20 mins), but as a parent of a kid who gets car sick – it’s not the most stable of rides. Overall, it’s manageable though, and air conditioned. So, we all arrived feeling pretty good.

This is at least a half-day trip

  • Since pretty much everyone visiting the park will be entering via the shuttle – there’s no popping into Ha’ena. Which is fine, the park is definately not worth visiting if all you’re wanting to do is go look at the beach and turn around. For most families visiting, I’d expect the bare minimum amount of time actually in the park to be 3-4 hours (tacking on approx. 1 additional hour for shuttle time) – so minimum 4:30 – 5 hrs car-to-car.

You have to bring everything you need

  • The amenities in the park are limited to bathrooms and a water fountain.
  • Our plans were to spend a bit of time on the beach, and the majority of our time hiking. We each brought a water bottle and thought we had enough. We easily could have used 2 water bottles per person for the hike and should have also brought a substantial snacks.
  • While the shuttle ride isn’t too long, Ha’ena is pretty far away from everything. There’s no running to the market or a nearby restaurant mid-day. If anything I’d suggest overpacking snacks or even bringing full meals. It’s going to be way more enjoyable to have too much food than end up hungry with literally no solution.
    • Especially when working within the shuttle schedule, make sure you have something for everyone to munch on instead of ‘waiting to get back to the car’.

No Cell Reception

  • Not that many people are planning on holding important Zoom meetings from Ha’ena, but you might want to call a cab if you miss the shuttle or the shuttle line gets crazy. Well, you’re mostly out of luck – or – you’re blissfully off-the-grid. Either way, there is a pay phone available to visitors if you need to make a call or you can hike a bit up the road to find a spot of service.

Pack Extra Sunscreen and Bug Repellent

  • Much of your day will be spent in the sun. Bring your sunscreen with you and reapply generously.
  • While we were there, in winter, bugs weren’t very noticeable (or we were really lucky). Apply bug spray at the base of the trail and again after getting into any water. Make sure to spray around your ankles, knees and wrists.

Ke’e Beach (the beach right at the entrance to the park)

  • At least for me, there’s a tendency to disregard the most accessible aspects of any park. Really though, Ke’e Beach is in many ways the best option for families. Not only is it right there when you arrive, there is seasonal swimming and snorkeling, and a lifeguard present for part of the beach (when the conditions are appropriate for getting into the water) – which makes swimming here at least appear safer. Also, there’s some great tree climbing.
  • Keep in mind – ‘seasonal’ is summer. In winter the beach is dangerous and swimming in not recommended.
  • *Quick Note* This beach is also respected as the location of the origin of the hula.

Ha’ena is Very Seasonal & Weather Dependent

  • The best time to visit is the summer, the beaches are calmer and can actually be enjoyed. Also, there is less overall rain.
  • We visited in winter – which was fantastic for crowds and weather, but the beaches were crazy choppy and we really couldn’t do much more than look at them.
  • Check with the park about the trail availability. Rainstorms can close the trails down, but usually only for a little bit – meaning if they are closed in the morning, they might reopen in the afternoon.

Dress Appropriately

  • Most of the action at Ha’ena is in the mountains (ie hiking). Since the Kalalua Trail is not a leisurely stroll, don’t expect to be super comfortable hiking it while dressed for the beach. I can tell you this from experience because I started the hike in a swimsuit and could tell I was having a harder time than the hikers passing me by.
  • Footwear – Wear closed toed shoes (preferably hiking boots – for real).
  • Clothing – I’d recommend shorts and a t-shirt with a light jacket (especially in winter). You’re going to be going in and out of shade so dress appropriately for that sort of hike.
  • *Keep in Mind* – Most likely, whatever you were is going to get wet, muddy or both. (probably both)

Very Important : The Kalalau Trail is Hiking

  • As we prepared for our trip, we read a few blogs, trying to get a grasp on exactly what the hiking experience was gonna be in Ha’ena. Then, by just about the second turn uphill, we realized no one had gotten into the particulars of what to expect from this exact hike – which was pretty shocking. Here’s what you need to know about the actual hike :
    • Steep : Ok – blanket statement here – any actual ‘hiking’ in Hawaii is pretty vertical. There are very few gradual ascents. This trail was not an exception. The Kalalua Trail is a moderate hike at best. (And while people who have CamelBaks might argue) I’d go as far as to say this is a strenuous hike.
    • Steep (pt 2) : Just a side note – in addition to the trail being mainly upwards, the sides of the trail can be pretty sheer. Some of our family were very uncomfortable with the drop-offs.
    • Wet & Muddy : This was really what I came here to say. You already know you’re hiking uphill for the majority of the trail, but what you don’t know is that the trail is mostly wet, slick rock and mud. I think I’m the only one in our party who actually fell down, but it was definately wet and slippery enough that it dramatically slowed us all down for most of the hike and even pushed some of us to turn around early.
Notice the grip that Grandma has on everyone…

Trails for Families – What can You Hike?

  • We set out with the goal of reaching Hanakapi’ai Beach (a 2 mile round-trip hike). We enjoyed the hiking and the views, but the steep sides turned some of us back within the first 1/2 mile and the slippery conditions and overall terrain helped us decide to turn around a bit after the Ke’e Beach-Kalalau Overlook. So we ended hiking somewhere around .7 miles before heading back to Ke’e Beach (the trailhead). There are several day hikes that are accessible for this same trail, and – even though this wasn’t great for our kindergartener-to-senior family – they might be great for you. Here’s where you can go and a bit about each experience:
    • Ke’e Beach-Kalalau Overlook – This is the shortest hike – just about 1-ish miles total out and back. It took us about an hour to reach the overlook and about :45 to get back down. It’s a great view, and a challenging but accessible hike. If this is all the hiking you do, you did a good job.
    • Hanakapi’ai Beach – This is the ‘main destination’ for most hikers…it’s where we were going, but – I mean – I don’t totally know why people go here.  Sure, this is a pretty beach, but I’m not sure how safe it is. Well, no…actually, I know that it can be very dangerous but what’s unclear is – is it ever safe. Visiting in winter, we were told flat-out, ‘The water will get you killed. Stay away from the water.’ Here’s a bit more about safety at the beach. After reading all the warning and knowing how challenging it is just to reach the beach I’m not sure why this is a place people choose to go to (just being honest).
    • Hanakapi’ai Falls – This is a real destination, a good choice for fit hikers. It’s a challenging 9.1 mile hike total round-trip. While this is way beyond our hiking abilities – it takes about 6 hours (idk – based on our experience, I’d say plan for 7 hours) – it’s a hike with a cool endpoint. There’s a gorgeous waterfall, and you are allowed to swim in the waterfall pool before turning back. Here’s a relatable account from a family who completed this hike.
  • To do any of these hikes, make sure you plan your day and your supplies accordingly. The shuttle service has an end time. So, keep that in mind if you plan on riding back to the satellite parking lot.

The Bus Back is A Consideration

  • After hiking and hanging at the beach, we headed back to the bus early for no particular reason. We arrived back at the pick-up pavilion about 20 mins early and there were already a handful of people waiting. Our return group quickly grew and when the shuttle arrived about 10 mins later – our group could already fill it up. The bus ended up leaving about 5 mins prior to the scheduled departure, completely full – with a few people waiting in the pavilion and at least two more groups racing across the boardwalk to hop on.
  • Especially in the afternoon – make sure you arrive at the shuttle stop early. Also (at least our experience) you have to make sure to stake your place in the waiting group. There were several last minute people that ran up and jumped on the shuttle before we were able to walk over…we almost didn’t make it on.

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